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Original text special to chinadaily chinaexpat.com
One of
the delights of the hospitality scene in Shanghai is that many of the
charming old hotels from the early 20th century still stand ? and more
importantly, still take bookings. In addition, some other interesting
old buildings than began life for other purposes are now modern hotels.
Because of its slightly unusual political status central Shanghai was
largely spared damage during WW2, and you can still stay in many of
these redoubtable old buildings.
If
you had come to Shanghai in the 1930s you would have had the choice of
several of grandest hotels in Asia. As a contemporary guidebook put it,
"Shanghai offers ample hotel and hotel-apartment accommodation, with a
wide variety of locations and tariffs". On the other hand, some Chinese
observers of the time felt these foreign buildings were inappropriate.
A 1932 local guidebook said, "these places have no relationship to us
Chinese...and besides the upper class atmosphere in these Western
hotels is very solemn, every move and gesture seems completely
regulated."
This
is all maybe something to contemplate over a drink in the bar of the
Peace or the Park !The Astor Hotel (now the Pujiang Hotel)Opened ?
1846Address ? 15 Huangpu Lu, ShanghaiTelephone ? 00 86 21 6324 21791934
rates - $12 single, $20 double, $30 suite(these rates are in Chinese
"Mexican" dollars, then roughly US$0.34).2006 rates ? RMB70 for
backpacker’s dormitory, RMB580-1680 for rooms, RMB2080-2800 for
suites(all modern rates are indicative only) http://www.pujianghotel.com This was the first Western hotel in China.
Originally
established as the Richards Hotel in 1846 in another location, just
three years after the city was opened to foreign trade, it was moved
and rebuilt as the Astor Hotel in 1860. The Kadoorie family
reconstructed the hotel in 1910. Renamed the Pujiang Hotel in 1959, it
has maintained its old style while acting partly as a backpackers'
hostel.
After
a RMB7m renovation of its 35 VIP rooms, the hotel decided it would
rather have no star rating than be underrated by city officials who
care more about the lack of modern facilities than cultural
significance. "Given the limited space and the fact that we are housed
in a historical building, we cannot afford modern facilities such as a
swimming pool and a tennis court," Wu Jiaming, the hotel's VP, told
local media. "So it would be a waste of time to ask to be reevaluated."
But
that didn't stop the hotel setting prices ranging up RMB2800 per night.
"This is a reasonable price, reflecting the true value of the hotel,"
said Wu. The hotel hosted many important historical events. On 26 July
1882, the city's first electric power appeared in the Astor's Flower
Garden Annex. In 1901, the hotel also broke new ground with the first
automatic telephone equipment in Shanghai in 1901, and the first sound
film from the West was projected there in 1908. In addition, the Astor
hosted China's first ball, helping to bring to a close the tradition
that women should not attend social activities.
More
recently, economic history was made here when the Shanghai Stock
Exchange was launched there on 19 December 1990 was launched there, the
first in China since 1949.In its long history the hotel has also
welcomed distinguished guests including Albert Einstein in 1922, and
Charlie Chaplin in 1931 and 1936. It is said that Chiang Kai-shek had
his last dinner there before withdrawing to Taiwan.Opened ? 25
September 1929Address - 23 Nanjing Dong Lu, ShanghaiTelephone ? 00 86
21 6329 18881934 rates ? from $20 single, from $35 double, from $35
suites2006 rates ? RMB560-1500 for rooms, RMB1800 for suites.
The
main building on the north side of Nanjing Lu was built by Sassoons,
the great trading house, whose fortune was built originally on opium
trading and arms-trading before being sunk into Shanghai real estate.
It offered guests a private plumbing system fed by a spring on the
outskirts of town, marble baths with silver taps and lavatories
imported from Britain ? with total space of 36,317 square meters, it
cost 2,483,640 liang of silver to build. A 1930s brochure calls it "the
most luxuriously appointed hotel in the Far East".
Designed
by architects Palmer and Turner, the Cathay was the pride of owner Sir
Victor Sassoon, who lived in the large apartment under the roof. This
had 360-degree views and was paneled in dark oak, resembling an English
club, where he entertained lavishly. Noel Coward is supposed to have
been staying here, recovering from flu, when he completed the play
Private Lives, in just four days. Another noted playwright, George
Bernard Shaw, stayed in the Cathay in 1933. Tragedy came to the hotel
in August 1937 when a Chinese bomber, attacking Japanese shipping on
the river, accidentally dropped its drops onto the street outside,
killing 1,198 people and injuring 1,318.
The
hotel is, of course, also famous for its Jazz Bar, although the band
now playing are the not the original renowned musicians. There are 380
rooms and suites in the Peace Hotel. The suites are named after various
countries ? Chinese, British, American, French, Japanese, Italian,
Indian, German and Spanish ? and are all elegantly decorated and
preserved in their original style. Our Publisher, Chris
Devonshire-Ellis, stayed in the Indian Suite in 1982 on his first visit
to China ? he recalls, "I stayed at the Indian Suite, which was truly
huge and very well appointed ? for USD500 for five days. The hotel has
seven suites, all decorated with a different theme ? the Indian,
German, French, American, British, Russian and Japanese suites, all
reflecting the different foreign concessions that Shanghai had at the
time the hotel was built. They are still there".
One
stunning space is the Peace Hall, in British Palace style, with a
dramatic vaulted ceiling decorated with moon style windows and six huge
crystal chandeliers. The original dance floor is still intact. This
magnificent Hall was the venue for the launch in autumn 2005 of China
Briefing's Business Guide to Shanghai and the Yangtze River Delta. The
North Building reopened in 1956, and the South Building (the old
Palace) in 1965. It is now operated by the Jin Jiang hotel group.
During late 2004, the hotel was set as the backdrop for the historical
movie The White Countess. www.shanghaipeacehotel.com
The
Park Hotel (same now)When it opened, the Park was, according to a 1934
advertisement, "the tallest building in the Far East" at 22 stories. It
boasted "205 luxuriously furnished rooms, apartments and unfurnished
flats, a beautifully decorated dining room and grill, and exquisite
cuisine". It was "situated at the theatrical and sport centre of
Shanghai", right on the edge of the race course (the northern edge of
what is now Nanjing Lu is curved because it follows the edge of the old
course). Within the hotel lobby is the officially-designated "centre of
Shanghai"? which is not, despite their claim, the Radisson next door.
The
building was designed by the famous Czech-Hungarian architect Ladislaus
Hudec, based in Shanghai, who designed many famous buildings in the
1920s and 1930s. The top floor featured a night club with a retracting
roof where The Morris Family Estate (now Rui Jin Hotel)Built as family
home ? early 1920sAddress ? 118 Rui Jin Er Lu, ShanghaiTelephone ? 00
86 21 6472 52221934 rates ? not applicable2006 rates ? RMB800
upwardsowner of the North China Daily News, the largest English
language newspaper in China in the early 20th century.
After
he died in 1919, his son H.E. Morriss Jr. purchased the land and
created the family compound, comprising four villas, numerous
outbuildings and a vast garden. Morriss Jr. bred racehorses and
greyhounds, and indeed the Camidrone dog racing track was opposite the
rear entrance of the estate. During WW2 the Italian Consulate occupied
one of the villas, and one guest was Count Ciano, Mussolini's
son-in-law, who apparently detested Shanghai.
After
1949 the estate was taken over by the Communist government and used as
a state guest house ? Mme Mao regularly stayed there. An air-raid
shelter was built in the garden for such VIPs - it still exists and is
used for as a storehouse for the hotel.
One
of the houses in the grounds of the hotel is the well-known modern bar
"Face".The French Club (now part of the Okura Garden Hotel)Opened ?
1926 as the French Club, 1984 as the hotelAddress ? 58 Mao Ming Nan Lu,
ShanghaiTelephone ? 00 86 21 6415 11111934 rates ? not applicable2006
rates ? RMB2000 upwards http://shanghai.okura.com/
Designed by the leading Shanghai-based architect Paul Veysseyre, the
French Club, or Cercle Sportif Francaise, now forms part of the Okura
Garden Hotel. The French styled their club on the same Art Deco
aesthetics as they did all their other buildings in the former French
Concessions. Artistic details like carved nudes on some columns
survived the Cultural Revolution by being covered up with plywood. The
grand ballroom is a fantastic venue, with a stained glass elliptical
ceiling lit from behind, and sunken sprung dance floor.
The
French Club had a much more open membership policy than other clubs in
the city, allowing women to join before WW2, for example, albeit only
40 at a time. It was also the first foreign club at permit Chinese
members. After the founding of the PRC, it was used as a People's
Palace and Chairman Mao Zedong chose to stay here when visiting
Shanghai. There is an eight room air raid shelter under the front lawn
(the entrance is near the fountain), which runs under the street across
the neighboring Jinjiang Hotel. More recent distinguished guests have
included the Manchester United football team.
The
Moller Villa (same now)Opened ? 1936 (as home), 2001 (as hotel)Address
? 30 Shaanxi Nan Lu, ShanghaiTelephone ? 00 86 21 6247 88811936 rates ?
n/a2006 rates ? RMB800-4000, suite RMB7000 www.mollervilla.comThis
is one of Shanghai's more unusual buildings, looking for all the world
like something out of a Hans Christian Andersen fairy tale. It was
originally built by Eric Moller, a British Jew who ran a flourishing
shipping business before WW2. Indeed, the story goes that his favourite
daughter had a dream in which she entered such a fairytale castle, and
Moller decided to design a villa based on her vision.
Work
began in 1927 and was completed in 1936.The interior design, however,
draws more from the reality Moller's shipping interests than fantasy.
There is a non-functional circular window on the main staircase, like a
porthole, and an elliptical rail in one room, as in a ship's engine
room. There is an attractive small garden, too, now the site of outdoor
seating for La Vie En Rose, the hotel's café, as well as a bronze
statue of Bionic Hill, Moller's favourite racehorse. After WW2 and
1949, the building was for many years used by the Shanghai Communist
Youth League.
In
2001, it was taken over by the Hengshan Group and extensively
refurbished into its current form as a unique hotel, now protected as a
cultural relic. Chris Devonshire-Ellis, recently stayed in the hotel
and commented, "the Moller Villa is a real treat and has a beautiful
hidden garden and small patio restaurant. Moller himself was a horse
racing buff and pictures of Shanghai's race meetings and various other
horse racing memorabilia are displayed throughout the building. Quiet
and a peek back at Shanghais colonial grandeur some 70 years ago".
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